In the latest New Yorker piece titled "Two Over Easy, with a Side of Xanthan Gum," we take a deep—and slightly surreal—dive into New York's bacon, egg, and cheese emergency. Fernando Mateo, co-founder of United Bodegas of America (U.B.A.), is on a mission to save the iconic breakfast sandwich from inflation, egg shortages, and yes—even vegan mung bean insurgents. With egg prices soaring and fresh inventory scarce due to avian flu, Mateo is leading a revolution with a controversial fix: switching to liquid eggs in cartons, the kind more often seen on cruise ships than in corner delis. The article paints a vivid picture of corner-store innovation and community pushback, where eggs are sold "loosie" style in baggies and avocado slices go for a clean dollar apiece. Not everyone is on board—for some locals, “cracking a real egg” remains sacred. But for Mateo and his liquid-yolk loyalists, the movement is less about nostalgia and more about survival, hustle, and adapting in lean times. As he declares, “Bodegas have figured it out... We don’t need rocket scientists.”

Key Points:

• Rising costs and egg scarcity have pushed NYC bodegas to rethink the classic bacon, egg, and cheese (B.E.C.) sandwich.
• Fernando Mateo and U.B.A. advocate replacing fresh eggs with liquid eggs—pre-mixed, pasteurized, and stabilized with additives like xanthan gum.
• The decision is driven by price: once a $2 sandwich, B.E.C.s are now regularly $6–$8, sparking dissatisfaction among customers.
• Liquid egg critics argue it’s “cheating the community”—demanding real eggs for real money.
• Liquid eggs used are largely egg whites with flavoring agents and thickeners to mimic yolks—but result in a paler, spongier texture.
• U.B.A. is also experimenting with selling eggs as singles or in trios to counter bulk inflation pricing—baggied eggs are a new reality.
• The crisis intensified with avian flu outbreaks, price gouging concerns, and even reports of cross-border egg smuggling.
• Security is becoming a concern—some delis have had eggs looted, and one store foiled a ham theft.
• Innovation is thriving on both sides of the counter: bodega owners are selling customized portions of toppings like avocado, lettuce, and tomato to meet rising costs and customer demands.
• The article also highlights Mateo’s colorful past—from high school dropout to flooring mogul, unsuccessful GOP mayoral candidate, and now sandwich revolutionary.

Product Mentions:

• Liquid Egg Products: While specific brands aren't named in the article, common commercial options used in food service include Egg Beaters, Papetti’s, and Abbotsford Farms Liquid Eggs.
• Xanthan gum: A food additive used to give the liquid egg mixture a yolk-like viscosity and color.

Noteworthy Quote:

• “If I’m going to pay for an egg sandwich, I want an egg. I want you to crack the egg.” – Bronx resident Quaison Richardson, voicing the community’s grievances.

Fact Check & Context:

• USDA data confirms egg prices surged in 2022–2023 due to record-breaking avian flu outbreaks, supply chain issues, and increased feed costs.
• Liquid eggs are a legitimate commercial alternative, used in institutional kitchens, fast food chains, and on cruise ships, as Mateo notes.
• Xanthan gum is commonly used in processed foods for texture—although some may raise eyebrows at its use in something once as simple as a B.E.C.

Summary Score: A hilariously sobering look at what happens when economic crisis meets New York’s most beloved sandwich. Grab your Lotto ticket and maybe just one egg.
Link to Article